90 Wine Advocate
Fresh ginger and white pepper pungency accent the concentration of ripe dark cherry and purple plum of Landanger's 2006 Volnay Caillerets Clos des 60 Ouvrees. There is a formidable sense of sheer density here, with well tucked-in tannins and an invigorating sense of energy. This relatively austere but palate-staining rendition of a Pousse d'Or monopole which taps some of the estate's oldest vines finishes with chalk, cherry pit, and incisive spice. I would plan to wait several years before reconnecting with this lean, typically long-distance runner, and anticipate its being well worth following for a dozen or more years.